FAQs
Roof Product FAQs
AeroNet® Wall & Roof Ventilation Mat
A roof ventilation mat creates a continuous air space beneath the roofing material to promote
airflow and drying. By allowing moisture and heat to escape, it helps protect roof assemblies,
especially as homes get tighter.
Proper ventilation helps reduce heat and moisture buildup that can contribute to mold, rot,
premature material deterioration, and reduced roof performance. A ventilated roof assembly
promotes drying and helps extend the life of the entire roofing deck. Learn more about why roof
ventilation matters.
Yes. AeroNet is engineered for both wall and roof applications, providing continuous airflow and
drainage behind roofing and cladding materials. Its versatile design and compression resistance
make it an ideal solution for creating high-performing building envelope systems.
A ventilation mat creates a dedicated air gap that allows air to circulate beneath the roofing or
cladding. This continuous airflow helps remove moisture more efficiently, allowing roof and wall
assemblies to dry faster after rain or condensation formation. Watch AeroNet’s airflow
performance.
AeroNet is designed for use behind wood, composite, and metal roofing and siding systems
where enhanced ventilation and drainage are desired. Always follow the roofing or cladding
manufacturer’s installation requirements and applicable building codes.
A ventilation mat is designed to create airflow and drainage behind roofing or cladding systems.
A rainscreen is a broader wall assembly strategy that uses an air gap to manage water and
improve drying. AeroNet can serve as the drainage space within a rainscreen wall assembly
while also providing ventilation beneath roofing materials. Discover AeroNet’s drainage
capabilities.
A roof ventilation mat is recommended when a project requires improved airflow and moisture
management beneath the roofing material. It’s especially beneficial for wood, metal, and
composite roof assemblies where trapped moisture can affect long-term performance,
durability, and service life. Find out why this builder chose AeroNet.
AeroNet is designed to integrate with Benjamin Obdyke housewraps, roof underlayments,
flashing, and other compatible products as part of a system, helping create a complete building
envelope designed for long-term protection and performance. Learn more about the
BenDefense approach.
VaporDry® SA Roof Underlayment
A vapor-permeable roof underlayment is a secondary layer of protection installed beneath the
finished roofing material. It helps protect the roof deck from water intrusion while allowing
moisture vapor trapped within the roof assembly to escape.
VaporDry SA combines a vapor-permeable membrane with 100% continuous acrylic adhesion to
provide durable weather protection while supporting roof drying potential. Learn more about the
pros and cons of different roof underlyaments.
While many traditional asphalt-based products provide waterproof protection, they are vapor
closed and can be sensitive to temperature extremes. VaporDry SA combines a vapor-
permeable membrane with 100% continuous acrylic adhesive to help protect against water
intrusion while allowing moisture vapor to escape. It also offers a wider installation temperature
range, repositionable adhesion, increased walkability, and up to 120 days of UV exposure, and it
can be used on both roof decks and roof-to-wall transitions. Compare VaporDry SA to other ice
& water protectors.
Unlike many traditional asphalt-based ice and water underlayment, VaporDry SA can be used
across the entire roof deck. Its vapor-permeable design helps moisture escape from the roof
assembly, making it well suited for full-roof applications where maximizing drying potential is
important — helping builders and contractors streamline installation and reduce material costs.
Yes. As more homeowners convert attics into finished living spaces or design homes with
conditioned attics, roof assemblies need to effectively manage moisture while allowing water
vapor to escape. VaporDry is a vapor-permeable roof underlayment that helps protect the roof
from water intrusion while allowing trapped moisture within the assembly to dry.
Roof assemblies are exposed to moisture from both the exterior environment and the building’s
interior. If trapped moisture cannot escape, it can contribute to wood rot, mold growth, and
premature deterioration of the roof deck. A roof underlayment that supports drying helps
manage incidental moisture and contributes to a more durable, longer-lasting roofing system.
Read more on why roof drying potential is so important.
In energy-efficient roof assemblies, self-adhered underlayments can also serve as a continuous
air control layer, helping reduce uncontrolled air leakage so insulation performs as intended.
When combined with proper ventilation and moisture management, the right underlayment
supports a roof assembly designed for both durability and energy efficiency. Learn more in The
Role of Roofing Underlayments in Energy-Efficient Roofs.
Choose VaporDry SA when your project requires a self-adhered roof underlayment that provides
a watertight seal, particularly in areas vulnerable to wind-driven rain or ice damming. It’s also an
excellent choice for full-roof applications where maximizing drying potential is important,
thanks to its vapor-permeable design. Find out why the MacKenzie Brothers chose VaporDry SA.
Yes. VaporDry SA is approved for use beneath all roofing types with a roof pitch of 3:12 or
greater. Its continuous acrylic adhesive and vapor-permeable design make it suitable for a wide
range of roof assemblies while supporting long-term roof performance. Always follow the
installation instructions and project requirements for your specific roofing system.
VaporDry SA is designed as part of BenDefense, Benjamin Obdyke’s integrated approach to total
building envelope protection. As a key component of the roof assembly, VaporDry SA works
seamlessly with Benjamin Obdyke roof ventilation solutions, including AeroNet and Cedar
Breather, to help manage moisture, support roof drying, and create a compatible system
designed for long-term durability and installation confidence. Read more on protecting the roof
investment.
Cedar Breather® Roof Ventilation Mat
Cedar Breather is a roof ventilation mat designed to create continuous airflow beneath wood
shingles and shakes, as well as select metal roofing systems. Its patented three-dimensional
matrix helps promote drainage and drying, reducing trapped moisture that can shorten the life
of the roof.
Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.
Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.
Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.
Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.
Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).
3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.
If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.
Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.
It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).
Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.
Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.
Wood roofing naturally absorbs and releases moisture as environmental conditions change.
Without proper ventilation, trapped moisture can contribute to cupping, warping, rot, and
premature deterioration. A ventilation mat helps promote continuous airflow beneath the roof
cladding, supporting faster drying and extending the life of the roofing system. Learn more
about why roof ventilation matters.
By promoting airflow and drying, Cedar Breather helps reduce conditions that can lead to rot,
decay, and premature roof failure, supporting long-term roof performance.
Yes. Cedar Breather is compatible with many standing seam and architectural metal roofing
systems where added ventilation and drainage are beneficial. Always follow the roofing
manufacturer’s installation requirements and Benjamin Obdyke’s installation guidelines.
Discover the benefits of Cedar Breather with metal roofing.
Both Cedar Breather and AeroNet promote airflow and moisture management, but they are
designed for different applications. Cedar Breather is specifically engineered to enhance the
performance of wood roofing systems and select metal roofs, while AeroNet is a versatile
ventilation mat designed for both roof and wall assemblies across a broader range of roofing
and cladding materials.
Yes. Cedar Breather provides a continuous ventilation space beneath the roof covering,
eliminating the need for traditional furring strips, helping simplify installation while promoting
airflow and drainage.
Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)
Shark Vent® XLP Ridge Vent
Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.
Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.
Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.
Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.
No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.
There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.
No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.
No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.
All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.
The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.
In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.
Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.
The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.
Roll Vent® Ridge Vent
Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.
Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.
18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.
No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.
It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.
No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.
No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.
Yes. The warranty is VOID.
No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.
Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.
Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.
We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.
The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.
Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.
Rapid Ridge® Ridge Vent
Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.
Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.
The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.
12.5 square inches per linear foot.
No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.
Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.
No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.
No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.
Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.
Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.
We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.
The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.
Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
Rapid Ridge® 7 Ridge Vent
Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.
Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.
The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.
12.5 square inches per linear foot.
No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.
Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.
No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.
No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.
Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.
Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.
We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.
The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.
Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
Xtractor Vent® X18 Ridge Vent
Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.
Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.
Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.
Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.
No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.
There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.
No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.
No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.
All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof
The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.
In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.
Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.
The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.
Xtractor Vent® X18 Xtra Ridge Vent
Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.
Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.
Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.
Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.
No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.
There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.
No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.
No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.
All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof
The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.
In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.
Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.
The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.
Xtractor Vent® XLP Ridge Vent
Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.
Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.
Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.
Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.
No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.
There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.
No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.
No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.
All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof
The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.
In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.
Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.
We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.
The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.
Wall Product FAQs
HydroGap® SA Housewrap
A self-adhered drainable weather-resistant barrier combines continuous air and moisture protection with built-in drainage behind exterior cladding. Unlike mechanically fastened WRBs, it adheres directly to the wall sheathing while creating a drainage space that helps manage bulk water and support long-term wall performance.
HydroGap SA combines Benjamin Obdyke’s continuous acrylic adhesive with patented drainable technology to provide both air sealing and moisture management in one system. Find out more on HydroGap SA.
Both self-adhered and mechanically fastened WRBs protect wall assemblies from water intrusion, but a self-adhered drainable WRB also provides continuous adhesion and integrated drainage to help reduce air leakage while managing bulk water behind the cladding. The right choice depends on your project’s performance goals and installation preferences. Discover more insights on Mechanically Fastened vs. Self-Adhered Housewrap.
Traditional self-adhered drainable weather-resistive barriers (WRBs) are designed to manage moisture behind exterior cladding, but product designs and performance can vary.
HydroGap SA combines Benjamin Obdyke’s patented 1 mm drainable technology with continuous acrylic adhesion in a single product. Features such as repositionable installation, no seam tape requirements, and no primer required above 25°F on common sheathing materials help simplify installation while supporting long-term wall performance. Discover all the advantges of HydroGap SA!
Managing water alone isn’t enough to protect a building envelope. Air leakage can carry moisture into the wall assembly, reducing energy efficiency and increasing the potential for condensation. At the same time, any water that reaches the wall needs a path to drain. By combining continuous air and moisture protection with built-in drainage, HydroGap SA helps support healthier, more durable wall assemblies.
Both HydroGap and HydroGap SA feature Benjamin Obdyke’s patented drainable technology. HydroGap is mechanically fastened, while HydroGap SA uses continuous acrylic adhesion to create an air barrier and simplify installation. Both provide integrated drainage to help manage moisture behind exterior cladding.
HydroGap SA reduces installation steps by combining continuous acrylic adhesion and integrated drainage in one product. Its repositionable adhesive helps improve alignment before full bond activation, while installation without a primer above 25°F on common sheathing materials can help improve jobsite efficiency. Check out the installation guide for full instructions.
HydroGap SA is well suited for projects where both drainage and continuous air barrier performance are priorities. It’s well suited for builders looking to improve energy efficiency, simplify installation, and better manage moisture in high-performance wall assemblies. Find the Right Housewrap for Your Project.
Yes. HydroGap is designed to work with Benjamin Obdyke flashing, roof protection, and accessory products as part of a complete wall assembly. When these components are used together, they help manage bulk water, simplify critical transitions, and support long-term building envelope performance. Learn more about BenDefense and all of Benjamin Obdyke’s systems.
HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap
Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.
HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.
A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.
To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.
52 rolls/pallet
Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal
*These require 2 layers; use with BenWrap.
Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.
Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.
The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.
TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.
The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.
Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.
The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.
HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.
If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.
Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with BenWrap as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.
Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.
Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.
We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.
You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.
Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.
Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
BenWrap™. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.
HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.
Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.
A drainable housewrap is a weather-resistive barrier (WRB) engineered with a built-in drainage gap to facilitate water removal from behind exterior siding. Unlike traditional flat housewraps, drainable housewraps like HydroGap provide a continuous capillary break. This space allows bulk water to escape quickly from the wall system, significantly reducing the risk of moisture-related damage.
Read What Is a Drainable Housewrap? for more details.
Water gets behind siding; it’s a reality of building science. The key is giving that moisture a way out. Effective drainage helps walls dry faster and reduces the risk of rot, mold, and long-term damage to the wall assembly. For more reasons why drainage is important, read Why Should I Use a Drainable Housewrap?
Traditional flat housewraps provide a WRB but do not create a dedicated drainage space behind the cladding. Drainable housewraps, like HydroGap, incorporate built-in spacers that help remove 100x more bulk than flat housewraps and promote faster drying, reducing the potential for moisture-related issues in the wall assembly. Download Understanding Housewraps to learn everything you need to know about the different housewrap types.
HydroGap is compatible with a wide range of residential and multifamily cladding systems, including wood, vinyl, and engineered siding applications. For stucco and masonry veneer, a rainscreen system is recommended — always verify your local code requirements.
No. While drainage efficiency measures how much water drains from a wall assembly, it doesn’t tell the whole story. Time to drain is equally important because water that exits the wall assembly more quickly has less opportunity to be absorbed by surrounding materials. Evaluating both measurements provides a more complete understanding of moisture management performance. Get the full story in Time to Drain vs. Drainage Efficiency.
When evaluating a drainable housewrap, look for products that balance high drainage efficiency with a fast time to drain. Faster drainage and improved drying can help reduce prolonged moisture exposure within the wall assembly and support better long-term performance. Key performance criteria to prioritize include:
- Drainage efficiency between 90% – 95% or higher
- Drainage space/gap of 1mm or larger
- Vapor permeability between 10 and 20 perms (our recommended sweet spot)
It depends on your cladding type and local building codes. For standard claddings like vinyl, wood, or fiber cement, HydroGap’s 1mm drainage space provides excellent moisture management without a separate rainscreen. However, HydroGap is not a full rainscreen system; for applications requiring maximum ventilation and drainage, or when installing reservoir claddings like stucco, a dedicated rainscreen system should still be used. Always check your local building codes.
Not all drainable housewraps manage moisture the same way. In addition to drainage efficiency, HydroGap is engineered to help water leave the wall assembly quickly through its patented 1mm spacer technology — a larger drainage gap than other drainable WRBs. By promoting faster drainage and drying, HydroGap helps reduce the amount of time moisture remains behind the cladding, supporting healthier, longer-lasting wall assemblies. Watch HydroGap’s drainage performance as it goes head-to-head with other brands.
BenWrap® SA Self-Adhered WRB Housewrap
A self-adhered weather-resistive barrier (WRB) uses a continuous adhesive backing to create an air-tight barrier that helps resist water intrusion, reduce uncontrolled air leakage, and simplify installation. Get more details in our Understanding Housewraps White Paper.
A self-adhered WRB provides continuous adhesion to the substrate, allowing it to function as both a moisture control layer and an air control layer The result is simpler installation and a tighter wall assembly with fewer opportunities for uncontrolled air leakage. Use our Mechanically Fastened vs. Self-Adhered Housewrap Guide to help you decide which product is right for your projects.
BenWrap is a mechanically fastened WRB, while BenWrap SA is a self-adhered WRB with a continuous acrylic adhesive. Both provide moisture management and vapor permeability, but BenWrap SA also helps create a continuous air barrier, simplifies detailing, and reduces installation steps by eliminating mechanical fasteners. The right choice depends on your project requirements, installation preferences, and wall assembly design.
BenWrap SA utilizes a high-performance acrylic adhesive that provides reliable adhesion, installation flexibility, and repositionability for improved installation accuracy. The adhesive continues to strengthen over time while performing across a broad range of temperatures. Explore all the advantages in Understanding Adhesive Technology.
The continuous acrylic adhesive helps create a continuous air barrier by sealing directly to the substrate and around fasteners while managing moisture. Reduce product redundancy in your projects with a housewrap system that manages air and water. Learn more.
Vapor permeability helps wall assemblies dry by allowing water vapor to escape through the WRB while still protecting against bulk water intrusion. BenWrap SA’s breathable design supports moisture management without trapping water within the assembly. Find out more about Why Vapor Permeability Matters When Selecting a Housewrap.
Yes. BenWrap SA is designed to work as part of a complete Benjamin Obdyke wall assembly. When paired with our flashing and rainscreen products, it helps create an integrated system that manages air, water, and moisture throughout the building envelope.
Explore Benjamin Obdyke flashing, rainscreen products, and building science resources to learn more about designing complete wall assemblies.
BenWrap® Housewrap | Formerly Known as FlatWrap® HP
BenWrap can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.
Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.
No.
BenWrap is recommended for use in the following applications:
- As a housewrap under Slicker
- As a housewrap under Slicker Max
- As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
- Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap
No.
No.
Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with BenWrap.
A weather-resistive barrier (WRB), also known as a housewrap, is a critical component of the building envelope designed to help resist water intrusion while allowing moisture vapor to escape. Learn More About Housewrap and WRBs.
Mechanically fastened WRBs or housewraps all help protect wall assemblies from water intrusion, but their construction and performance characteristics can vary. BenWrap features a durable tri-laminate layering that resists surfactants, provides excellent tear and wind load resistance, and allows moisture vapor to escape to support long-term wall performance. It’s designed for builders who want dependable WRB protection without integrated drainage or self- adhered installation.
BenWrap is an excellent choice for projects that require a durable, mechanically fastened housewrap with reliable moisture protection and vapor permeability. It’s well suited for residential and multifamily construction where dependable WRB performance is needed and can be paired with Benjamin Obdyke rainscreen products when enhanced drainage and drying are desired.
Vapor permeability allows moisture vapor to pass through the weather-resistive barrier, helping wall assemblies dry when moisture is present. This drying potential can help reduce the risk of moisture accumulation within the wall system. Find out more on vapor permeability and its importance in Housewrap Permeability Basics.
Yes. BenWrap can be used as part of a rainscreen wall assembly. When paired with a rainscreen system, like AeroNet or Slicker, it helps create a comprehensive moisture-management system that promotes drainage and drying behind exterior cladding. Discover what makes BenWrap and AeroNet a winning combination for your walls in BenWrap + AeroNet.
Seam tape requirements vary by product and application. BenWrap does not require seam tape to maintain its moisture-management performance, helping reduce installation steps and labor costs. Always follow manufacturer installation instructions and project requirements. Get Best Practices for Housewrap Seam Tapes.
Both BenWrap and BenWrap SA provide dependable weather-resistive barrier protection, but they’re designed for different installation methods and project requirements. BenWrap™ is a mechanically fastened WRB that offers durable, vapor-permeable protection with straightforward installation. BenWrap SA is a self-adhered WRB that combines continuous acrylic adhesion with enhanced air and moisture management, making it a strong choice for projects requiring improved air barrier performance and simplified detailing.
BenWrap is designed as part of BenDefense, Benjamin Obdyke’s integrated approach to total building envelope protection. As the foundation of the wall assembly, BenWrap works seamlessly with Benjamin Obdyke flashing, rainscreen, roof protection, and accessory products to create a compatible system that helps manage moisture, simplify critical transitions, and support long-term building performance. Learn more about BenDefense and all of Benjamin Obdyke’s systems.
InvisiWrap® SA Housewrap
A UV-resistant self-adhered weather-resistive barrier (WRB) combines UV protection with
continuous acrylic adhesion to help resist water intrusion, reduce air passage, and protect wall
assemblies in open-joint cladding applications and projects where the WRB will be exposed for
longer periods before siding installation. Learn more.
A self-adhered WRB creates a continuous bond to the substrate, helping reduce air leakage
while simplifying installation around windows, doors, and other critical transitions. When paired
with UV resistance, it provides durable protection for open-joint wall assemblies. Get the
insights on when and why you shoud chose a self-adhered WRB.
InvisiWrap SA can remain exposed to UV for up to 365 days before cladding installation,
providing greater flexibility for extended construction schedules, phased projects, and open-joint
applications. Long-term UV exposure can degrade conventional weather-resistive barriers,
reducing their ability to resist water and potentially compromising long-term performance.
InvisiWrap SA is engineered to withstand extended UV exposure, helping protect the wall
assembly until the cladding is installed. Read more on the risks of UV exposure.
InvisiWrap SA is designed for open-joint cladding with openings up to 2 inches or 40% of the
total wall area, while still providing UV-resistant protection. Always follow Benjamin Obdyke
installation requirements and applicable building codes.
No. Both InvisiWrap UV and InvisiWrap SA feature a black, non-printed facer with no visible
logos or branding. This creates a clean, consistent appearance behind open-joint cladding and
other applications where the WRB may remain visible.
Both InvisiWrap UV and InvisiWrap SA are engineered for open-joint cladding applications where
the WRB is exposed to UV light. InvisiWrap UV is a mechanically fastened WRB designed to
provide long-term moisture protection in exposed wall assemblies. InvisiWrap SA builds on
those same benefits by adding a continuous self-adhered acrylic backing that helps simplify
installation and create a tighter building envelope. The right choice depends on your project’s
performance goals and installation requirements.
The continuous acrylic adhesive forms a durable bond to the substrate and seals around
fasteners, helping reduce uncontrolled air movement. This supports a tighter building envelope
while maintaining moisture control. Learn more about considerations for air barriers.
InvisiWrap SA is designed for use behind open-joint wood, fiber cement, metal, composite, and
other exterior cladding systems where long-term UV exposure of the WRB is expected. Always
follow the cladding manufacturer’s installation requirements and applicable building codes.
InvisiWrap SA is ideal for projects with extended construction schedules, phased construction,
open-joint cladding, multi-family construction, and other architectural wall assemblies where
long-term UV exposure of the WRB is expected. Its 365-day UV exposure rating provides
flexibility without compromising protection.
Yes. InvisiWrap SA is designed to work with Benjamin Obdyke flashing, rainscreen, and
accessory products as part of a complete wall assembly. When these components are used
together, they help manage air, water, and moisture while simplifying transitions throughout the
building envelope. Learn more about Benjamin Obdyke rainscreen systems and integrated wall
assemblies.
InvisiWrap® UV Black Housewrap
Open-joint cladding is an exterior siding system designed with intentional gaps between
cladding panels to create a modern architectural appearance. Because these openings expose
the weather-resistive barrier to sunlight and the elements, they require products engineered to
withstand prolonged UV exposure. Learn everything you need to know about open-joint
cladding.
A UV-resistant WRB is designed to withstand prolonged UV exposure while continuing to protect
the wall assembly from moisture intrusion. These specialized WRBs are ideal for open-joint
cladding systems. InvisiWrap UV is engineered specifically for these applications, providing
long-term UV resistance along with dependable moisture management.
Better understand when you need to use a UV-rated wall system by reading When to Consider a
UV-Rated Wall System.
Unlike traditional cladding, open-joint systems expose portions of the WRB to direct sunlight.
Prolonged UV exposure can degrade conventional WRBs over time, potentially affecting
performance. A UV-resistant WRB is engineered to withstand this exposure while continuing to
protect the wall assembly from water intrusion.
InvisiWrap UV is ideal for open-joint cladding applications where the WRB remains visible
through the cladding gaps, as well as larger projects where the WRB may be exposed for longer
periods prior to siding installation. Its UV-resistant, black, unprinted surface provides long-term
durability and a clean appearance while maintaining reliable moisture management.
A black housewrap creates a clean appearance behind open-joint cladding by minimizing
visibility through the gaps, giving the appearance of shadow lines. In addition to aesthetics,
InvisiWrap UV is engineered to withstand prolonged UV exposure while continuing to perform as
a high-performance WRB. Get more on Benefits of a Black Housewrap.
Both products are engineered for extended UV exposure and open-joint cladding applications.
InvisiWrap UV is a mechanically fastened WRB, while InvisiWrap SA features a continuous self-
adhered acrylic backing that helps create a continuous air barrier and simplify installation. The
right choice depends on your project’s performance goals and installation preferences. Read
more about mechanically fastened versus self-adhered.
InvisiWrap UV can withstand up to 365 days of UV exposure before cladding installation, giving
builders greater flexibility during construction while maintaining protection of the wall assembly.
For more on what installers should know about UV exposure, check out this blog.
InvisiWrap UV is designed for use behind open-joint wood, fiber cement, metal, composite, and
other exterior cladding systems where UV exposure to the WRB is expected. Always follow the
cladding manufacturer’s installation requirements and applicable building codes.
Yes. InvisiWrap UV is designed to work with Benjamin Obdyke flashing, rainscreen, and
accessory products as part of the BenDefense approach. Together, these components help
manage water, support drainage and drying, and provide long-term building envelope
performance. Learn more.
HydroFlash® UV+
A UV-resistant flashing tape is designed to maintain its performance when exposed to sunlight
for extended periods. It’s commonly used in applications such as open-joint cladding, where
portions of the flashing may remain visible after installation. HydroFlash UV+ combines long-
term UV resistance with an acrylic adhesive to help protect critical transitions around windows,
doors, and other penetrations from water intrusion. Learn more.
Unlike a conventional wall system, open-joint cladding allows air, water, and sun to enter the
building envelope. The gaps between the cladding cause the building envelope to be exposed to
increased moisture and UV rays. Products like HydroFlash UV+ provide greater resilience to UV
rays and extreme environments to provide the UV resistance and weather protection needed for
exposed wall assemblies. Get the basics on open-joint cladding.
Many open-joint cladding systems use composite boards or other specialty materials, and
manufacturers often specify the moisture management products that should be used behind
them. Learn about moisture-control requirements for open-joint cladding systems.
HydroFlash UV+ can remain exposed to UV for up to 365 days before cladding installation, so
it’s not just well-suited for open-joint cladding, but also projects with extended construction
schedules that may delay siding installation. Long-term UV exposure can degrade conventional
flashing tapes, which will affect their ability to protect against moisture and air infiltration over
time. HydroFlash UV+ is engineered to withstand extended UV exposure, helping protect the
wall assembly. Read more on the risks of UV exposure.
Vapor-permeable flashing tape allows water vapor to escape while continuing to protect against
liquid water intrusion. HydroFlash UV+ was one of the first flashing tapes readily available on
the market that is vapor permeable, also referred to as vapor open, making it ideal for almost all
applications. When you install a vapor-open flashing tape around the window’s rough opening,
you help prevent the chance of moisture damage and rot to the sheathing. Learn more about
vapor-open vs. vapor-closed flashing tapes.
The standard gap between sheathing boards allotted for expansion is the opening that becomes
the path of least resistance for moisture to move from the interior of the envelope to the
exterior. When using the sheathing as an air control layer, taping the seams with a vapor
permeable tape maximizes the drying potential of your building envelope while maintaining air
sealing performance. If you want to achieve this, HydroFlash UV+ is the right option.
HydroFlash UV+ is designed to complement Benjamin Obdyke weather-resistive barriers,
rainscreen systems, and other moisture management solutions as part of the BenDefense
approach to building envelope design. Together, these components help create wall assemblies
designed to manage water, air, and moisture, providing reliable protection for open-joint
cladding and other exposed applications. Learn more.
Batten UV
Open-joint cladding intentionally leaves portions of the wall assembly exposed to sunlight.
Using UV-resistant rainscreen components helps maintain long-term performance during
construction and after installation by protecting the wall assembly where UV exposure is
expected. Discover how Batten UV meets the needs of open-joint cladding systems.
Batten UV is an engineered polymer rainscreen designed specifically for open-joint cladding
applications. Unlike traditional wood furring strips, it is moisture- and rot-resistant and helps
create a consistent ventilation cavity to promote drainage and drying behind the cladding.
Choose Batten UV for open-joint cladding systems that require a UV-stable, ventilated
rainscreen. It’s ideal for projects where long-term drainage, drying, and wall performance are
priorities, particularly when paired with UV-resistant weather-resistive barriers.
Yes. Batten UV is designed to support a variety of open-joint cladding materials, including
composite decking used as siding. Its compression-resistant construction helps maintain a
consistent ventilation cavity behind the cladding. Always follow Benjamin Obdyke installation
guidelines and the cladding manufacturer’s recommendations.
A continuous ventilation cavity allows water to drain while promoting airflow behind the
cladding. This helps the wall assembly dry more effectively, reducing the potential for trapped
moisture that can contribute to material deterioration over time. Batten UV’s compression
resistance is engineered to help maintain this cavity, even behind heavier cladding materials.
Both Batten UV and traditional wood furring strips create a ventilation cavity behind cladding to
promote drainage and drying. Batten UV is engineered specifically for open-joint cladding
applications, providing UV stability for up to 365 days before cladding installation, moisture- and
rot-resistant polymer construction, and compression resistance comparable to wood furring
strips.
Batten UV is designed as part of BenDefense, Benjamin Obdyke’s integrated approach to total
building envelope protection. Batten UV works together with InvisiWrap UV and HydroFlash UV+
to help manage moisture, promote drying, and create healthier wall aseemblies. Explore
BenDefense.
Slicker® Classic Rainscreen
A rainscreen drainage matrix creates a defined space between exterior cladding and the
weather-resistive barrier. That space gives water a path out of the wall system while allowing air
movement to support drying.
Slicker Classic uses a three-dimensional matrix with patented vertical channels to maintain a
continuous 1/4-inch drainage and ventilation cavity behind siding. Unlike a flat drainage plane, it
physically separates the cladding from the WRB. Read more about what a rainscreen is.
Water can get behind siding through joints and penetrations, by wind-driven rain, or from
moisture absorbed by the cladding itself. A drainage and ventilation space helps that water
escape before it becomes trapped against vulnerable materials.
Slicker Classic provides a continuous pathway for drainage and drying behind absorptive
claddings, helping reduce conditions that contribute to mold, rot, peeling finishes, and material
deterioration.
Both Slicker Classic and wood furring strips create space behind cladding for drainage and
ventilation. Furring strips require individual layout, cutting, and fastening, while Slicker Classic
installs as a continuous rolled matrix.
The roll format reduces installation steps and creates drainage paths across the wall without
introducing additional wood that can absorb moisture or decay. Watch the Slicker Classic
installation video.
Slicker Classic is known as the original rolled rainscreen, providing a simple way to create a
continuous drainage and drying space behind cladding without the need for furring strips. Unlike
rainscreen products that incorporate a filter fabric, Slicker Classic uses an open 3D matrix to
create the capillary break, drainage, and drying space behind compatible cladding.
A drainable housewrap creates a smaller drainage gap as part of the WRB itself. Slicker Classic
is installed over a separate WRB and creates a larger, 1/4-inch rainscreen cavity that supports
both drainage and ventilation.
A drainable housewrap may be appropriate for many common siding assemblies. Slicker
Classic provides enhanced drying potential for absorptive cladding, demanding exposures, and
projects where a defined rainscreen space is preferred. Compare HydroGap and Slicker
rainscreen systems .
Slicker Classic, Slicker MAX, and AeroNet all create space for drainage and drying, but each is
designed to meet different project and application needs. Slicker Classic provides a filter-free
rainscreen solution for compatible claddings and allows for up to 30 days of UV exposure.
Slicker MAX incorporates a filter fabric for applications such as stucco and manufactured stone
veneer and allows for up to 90 days of UV exposure. AeroNet can be used in both wall and roof
assemblies, offers higher compression resistance and allows for up to 120 days of UV
exposure. Explore our rainscreen solutions.
Gravity needs a clear path. Slicker Classic’s patented channels run vertically, directing bulk
water downward toward the drainage opening at the base of the wall. The three-dimensional
matrix keeps the cladding separated from the WRB, helping preserve that drainage pathway
while supporting airflow and drying throughout the assembly.
Wind creates pressure differences that can drive rain through gaps in exterior cladding. A
rainscreen cavity helps moderate those pressure differences, reducing one of the forces that
can pull water farther into the assembly.
Slicker Classic maintains continuous space behind the cladding for pressure equalization,
drainage, and drying. In other words, it gives moisture fewer reasons to stay put.
Get more on what is important in rainscreen assemblies.
Slicker Classic is recommended behind wood siding and can also support moisture
management behind other absorptive claddings, including fiber cement. The cladding,
fasteners, WRB, and wall design must still meet their respective installation requirements.
For stucco, adhered stone, or similar masonry claddings, use Slicker MAX rather than Slicker
Classic.
Yes. Slicker Classic is designed to work with Benjamin Obdyke weather-resistive barriers,
flashing products, roof protection products, and interior moisture management solutions as part
of the BenDefense approach to building envelope design. Learn more.
Slicker® MAX Rainscreen
Cementitious materials can absorb moisture, which can become trapped, leading to long-term
degradation of both the cladding and the interior walls. Slicker MAX’s unique vertical
channels create a 1⁄4-inch gap that provides room for excess moisture to drain away while
allowing for ventilation and air circulation to maximize drying potential.
Slicker MAX combines two key features: a 3D matrix that creates vertical channels for a
moisture drainage path and fabric layer that serves as a sacrificial layer to block mortar
droppings from seeping into the cavity. The fabric layer also provides additional compression
strength to accommodate the heavier masonry cladding materials. Learn why compression
resistance is important for rainscreens.
The 2021 International Residential Code introduced additional drainage requirements for stucco
over wood-based sheathing in Moist (A) and Marine (C) climate zones. These assemblies must
include a drainage space or drainage material of at least 3/16 inch outside the water-resistive
barrier, or meet an alternative drainage-efficiency requirement. Adhered masonry veneer must
comply with the applicable stucco water-resistive barrier requirements as well.
Slicker MAX helps create the drainage space behind stucco and adhered masonry veneer while
its filter fabric helps keep mortar from entering and clogging the drainage cavity.
Like furring strips, Slicker MAX creates a gap between the cladding material and the wall to
facilitate moisture drainage and drying. Slicker MAX is a continuous rolled matrix product, so it
saves time and labor costs compared to furring strips that require individual layout, cutting, and
fastening. It also creates unobstructed vertical channels, whereas furring strips interrupt the
drainage plane and introduce additional wood materials that might be vulnerable to rot and
decay. Watch the Slicker MAX installation video.
To create a tried-and-true masonry rainscreen system, Slicker MAX should be combined with a
flat housewrap such as BenWrap® or BenWrap® SA and with HydroFlash® GP self-adhered
flashing tape. If used with BenWrap SA self-adhered housewrap, the housewrap can also serve
as the air control layer. See stucco wall assembly details.
Both Slicker Classic and Slicker MAX allow for drainage and ventilation behind exterior cladding,
but they’re designed for different applications. Slicker Classic is ideal for many wood and
composite siding installations, while Slicker MAX is engineered for stucco, adhered stone, or
similar masonry claddings. Read about different rainscreen systems.
Slicker Classic, Slicker MAX, and AeroNet all create space for drainage and drying, but each is
designed to meet different project and application needs. Slicker Classic provides a filter-free
rainscreen solution for compatible claddings and allows for up to 30 days of UV exposure.
Slicker MAX incorporates a filter fabric for applications such as stucco and manufactured stone
veneer and allows for up to 90 days of UV exposure. AeroNet can be used in both wall and roof
assemblies, offers higher compression resistance and allows for up to 120 days of UV
exposure. Explore our rainscreen solutions.
Water needs a clear path to drain down and out of the wall assembly. The patented vertical
channels of Slicker MAX direct bulk water downward toward the drainage opening at the base of
the wall. The 3D matrix keeps the cladding separated from the WRB, helping preserve that
drainage pathway while supporting airflow and drying throughout the assembly.
Yes. Slicker MAX is designed to work with Benjamin Obdyke weather-resistive barriers, flashing
products, roof protection products, and interior moisture management solutions as part of the
BenDefense approach to building envelope design. Learn more.
AeroNet® Wall & Roof Ventilation Mat
A roof ventilation mat creates a continuous air space beneath the roofing material to promote
airflow and drying. By allowing moisture and heat to escape, it helps protect roof assemblies,
especially as homes get tighter.
Proper ventilation helps reduce heat and moisture buildup that can contribute to mold, rot,
premature material deterioration, and reduced roof performance. A ventilated roof assembly
promotes drying and helps extend the life of the entire roofing deck. Learn more about why roof
ventilation matters.
Yes. AeroNet is engineered for both wall and roof applications, providing continuous airflow and
drainage behind roofing and cladding materials. Its versatile design and compression resistance
make it an ideal solution for creating high-performing building envelope systems.
A ventilation mat creates a dedicated air gap that allows air to circulate beneath the roofing or
cladding. This continuous airflow helps remove moisture more efficiently, allowing roof and wall
assemblies to dry faster after rain or condensation formation. Watch AeroNet’s airflow
performance.
AeroNet is designed for use behind wood, composite, and metal roofing and siding systems
where enhanced ventilation and drainage are desired. Always follow the roofing or cladding
manufacturer’s installation requirements and applicable building codes.
A ventilation mat is designed to create airflow and drainage behind roofing or cladding systems.
A rainscreen is a broader wall assembly strategy that uses an air gap to manage water and
improve drying. AeroNet can serve as the drainage space within a rainscreen wall assembly
while also providing ventilation beneath roofing materials. Discover AeroNet’s drainage
capabilities.
A roof ventilation mat is recommended when a project requires improved airflow and moisture
management beneath the roofing material. It’s especially beneficial for wood, metal, and
composite roof assemblies where trapped moisture can affect long-term performance,
durability, and service life. Find out why this builder chose AeroNet.
AeroNet is designed to integrate with Benjamin Obdyke housewraps, roof underlayments,
flashing, and other compatible products as part of a system, helping create a complete building
envelope designed for long-term protection and performance. Learn more about the
BenDefense approach.
HydroFlash® LA
HydroFlash LA is ideal for challenging details where traditional flashing tape would need to be
cut, folded, or pieced together. Use it around window sills, corners, curves, specialty-shaped
windows, transitions, penetrations, and other irregular details where a continuous seal is difficult
to achieve with tape alone. It can also be used for filling imperfections and penetrations. Learn
more about what type of flashing to use where.
HydroFlash LA comes in sausages or cartridges similar to caulk. Squeeze out a bead and
smooth to 20-40 wet mils using a tool like a spackle and putty knife. See best practices for
using liquid-applied flashing in rough window openings.
When it comes to HydroFlash LA, less is more. A thickness of 20-40 wet mils is good; keep in
mind that the thicker you apply, the less vapor permeability it has and the longer it takes to cure.
Ask your rep for our handy mil gauge to verify the depth once applied. See best practices for
using liquid-applied flashing in rough window openings.
Along with flashing rough openings and other challenging areas, HydroFlash LA’s flexibility
makes it a great option for applications such as control joints in concrete buildings and areas
with seismic activity.
HydroFlash LA can be used in combination with HydroFlash GP flashing tape to balance
installation ease with budget. Use HydroFlash LA for the window sill area, then finish the
window with HydroFlash GP on the rest of the side jambs and headers. Download step-by-step
installation instructions.
HydroFlash LA comes in a 20-ounce sausage or a 10-ounce cartridge depending on your volume
needs. The 10-ounce version is ideal for smaller projects and can be applied without special
tools.
HydroFlash LA is designed to integrate with Benjamin Obdyke weather-resistive barriers,
rainscreen systems, and other moisture management products as part of the BenDefense
approach. Used together, these products help create a continuous building envelope designed
to manage water, air, and water vapor while protecting complex details where leaks are most
likely to occur.
HydroFlash® GP
Window openings are one of the most vulnerable areas of the building envelope. For window
rough openings, flashing is used to create the sill pan, protecting the sill and creating a pathway
for any moisture to drain out of the window assembly, and then to seal the flanges of the
window to the wall. This helps keep moisture away from sheathing and framing members to
protect an area particularly vulnerable to damage and mold. Learn best practices for window
flashing installation.
General-purpose flashing, liquid-applied flashing, and UV-resistant flashing each offer unique
characteristics that meet different project needs.
- HydroFlash LA liquid-applied flashing conforms around corners, curves, and awkward
shapes, making it ideally suited to window sills and other tricky spots. - HydroFlash UV+ flashing is engineered to withstand extreme conditions and longer UV
exposure, so it’s appropriate for open-joint cladding applications and projects where
siding installation may be delayed. - HydroFlash GP can be used around most of the window in combination with other
flashings used at the corners and sill; because it is vapor closed, it’s also well-suited to
areas of the house where absolutely no moisture transfer is the goal, such as a deck
ledger that’s completely flush against the WRB.
For a complete breakdown on what to use where, see our short guide to flashing types.
As part of a wall system’s moisture management strategy, flashing at window openings to
create a sill pan establishes a pathway for moisture to drain out and away. Benjamin Obdyke
offers four approaches to sill corners to achieve proper sequencing: creating “corner patches”
or “bow ties” using HydroFlash GP or HydroFlash UV+ flashing tape, using HydroFlash LA liquid-
applied flashing, or using HydroCorners. Explore the differences between each window corner approach.
When choosing a window flashing, some details about the window itself, including material,
shape, and size, may influence which flashing you choose. Common things to consider are
ensuring your flashing is compatible with both the window material and the sealant used behind
the nail flange, whether the window is flanged or non-flanged, if it has a difficult shape, and
whether the home has exterior insulation. Learn how to choose flashing based on window
characteristics.
HydroFlash GP is a general-purpose flashing tape, and HydroFlash UV+ is a UV-stable flashing
tape. There are three primary differentiators between the two: UV resistance (HydroFlash UV+
offers longer UV exposure of 12 months), vapor permeability (HydroFlash UV+ is vapor-open,
HydroFlash GP is vapor-closed), and facer material (HydroFlash UV+ has a polypropylene facer
that enhances durability during installation). See what these differentiators mean for your
flashing choices.
Acrylic adhesive is the ideal, high-performance choice for flashing tapes and housewraps.
Benefits of acrylic technology include repositionability during installation followed by a long-
term bond once pressure is applied, a broader range of install temperatures, and a high
cohesion rate. Learn what distinguishes a high-performance flashing tape.
HydroFlash GP is designed to complement Benjamin Obdyke weather-resistive barriers,
rainscreen systems, roof protection products, and interior moisture management solutions as
part of the BenDefense approach to building envelope design. Together, these components help
create wall assemblies designed to manage water, air, moisture, and vapor, helping protect
critical details like window openings. Learn more.
HydroTape® DS Sealing Tape
When applying mechanically fastened housewrap as an air control layer, all sections
where two layers of the WRB overlap should be taped, and the top and bottom
termination of the WRB must be sealed to the sheathing and foundation. This will help
prevent blowoff during installation and before the cladding is applied, and it also can
prevent moisture from getting behind the WRB. Learn about different options for seam
tape.
Traditional seam tapes that adhere to the surface of housewrap or to sheathing with
integrated weather barriers can create a reverse overlap; in these cases, if the tape
wrinkles or lacks sealing pressure, it can impede water drainage and create “fishmouths”
that collect and trap moisture. HydroTape DS applies between the housewrap layers, so
it doesn’t risk impeding the flow of moisture as it drains away and dries out. Learn about
the negative effects of traditional housewrap tape. Or check out this video.
Both can help create an effective air control layer, but a fully self-adhered WRB offers a more
continuous approach to air sealing. While mechanically fastened housewrap requires
compatible seam tape at overlaps and sealing at terminations, a self-adhered WRB bonds
directly to the sheathing and overlapping housewrap layers without mechanical fasteners or
seam tape. This helps reduce potential air leakage points and simplifies installation. Read more
on alternatives to seam tape.
Many conventional seam tapes are vapor-closed, which means that trapped moisture
will dry inward toward the sheathing rather than to the exterior. HydroTape DS is vapor-
permeable, which will help any trapped moisture dry toward the exterior of the wall
assembly.
Yes. HydroTape DS is compatible with Benjamin Obdyke’s BenWrap® flat housewrap,
HydroGap® drainable housewrap, and InvisiWrap ® housewrap for extended UV
exposure and extreme conditions. See how HydroGap and HydroTape DS work together
for retrofit applications.
HydroTape DS is straightforward to install: Apply the tape to the first row of housewrap,
about 2 inches from the top; apply pressure to activate the adhesive, checking for
wrinkles and bubbles; install the next layer of housewrap, leaving the bottom 10 inches
unfastened; remove the HydroTape release liner; fold the housewrap onto the tape; place
pressure on the housewrap; and apply cap fasteners to the overlap. Get more details on
using HydroTape DS with mechanically fastened housewrap.
Yes. HydroTape DS is designed to work with Benjamin Obdyke WRBs, rainscreen systems and
interior moisture management solutions as part of the BenDefense approach to building
envelope design. Together, these components help manage water, air, and water vapor
throughout the building envelope while maintaining drainage and drying behind mechanically
fastened WRBs.
VaporWise® Vapor-Variable Interior Membrane
Just like on the home exterior, excess moisture in the home can create problems within the
building envelope. A family of four can produce 2+ gallons of water vapor per day just by
cooking, showering, breathing, and doing laundry. If that water vapor doesn’t have a path to
dry out — or worse, if it gets trapped inside the walls — it can cause mold, rot, and expensive
repairs. VaporWise helps alleviate these concerns, helping to keep the wall cavity dry by
providing ideal permeability based on the specific needs in each season.
Vapor diffusion is the net movement of vapor molecules from an area of higher
concentration to an area of lower concentration or from a warm area to a cooler area. When
water vapor passes through an assembly and comes in contact with a surface that has a
temperature below the dew point, it becomes liquid, which on wood sheathing can lead to
rot, mold, and decay. Learn how to address vapor movement in the building envelope.
A vapor perm rates how effective the materials is at blocking or allowing water vapor to
pass through. Choosing the right perm rating requires consideration of a range of factors,
such as climate, and looking at the whole wall as a system. A vapor-open assembly is the
safest way to build in order to allow water vapor to move freely and prevent trapped
moisture. In general, building science leans toward a range of 10 to 20 perms for the ideal
balance. It’s also important to consider that every element of the wall assembly has a
different perm rating. Get more details on vapor perms.
Air barriers are used to stop the movement of air through an assembly, blocking
uncontrolled air flow between the exterior and the interior of the structure; they can be
installed on the interior or exterior of the wall assembly. Vapor barriers are used to stop
nearly all vapor transfer through an assembly. Since vapor barriers completely block
moisture, they are typically used only in colder climate zones, in below-grade spaces, and on
the interior side of the assembly. Explore the unique features of air barriers and vapor
barriers.
When specified as part of a systems-designed wall assembly, air barriers and vapor barriers
used together can create a very air-tight assembly. Individually, a vapor barrier will block vapor
from entering the assembly from the interior, and a vapor-permeable air barrier on the exterior
side will allow moisture in the assembly to dry out. Learn more about specifying air barriers and
vapor barriers.
A vapor barrier blocks vapor diffusion movement while a vapor retarder significantly slows
the diffusion movement through an assembly. Vapor barriers are most often used in an area
with an extreme moisture load, such as the basement around the foundation walls in the
ground. Vapor retarders come in a range of permeance levels to regulate moisture moving
through the assembly. Wall systems with typical quantities of moisture will use a vapor
retarder because it allows vapor to move and the wall assembly to dry out. Learn more
about specifying vapor barriers and vapor retarders.
VaporWise is a vapor-variable interior membrane that adjusts its vapor permeability in response
to changes in relative humidity. This allows it to function more like a vapor barrier when
conditions call for greater vapor control and become more vapor open when conditions favor
drying. This adaptability helps manage vapor movement while allowing moisture within the
assembly to dry when needed.
Just like it sounds, the VaporWise vapor-variable membrane changes its vapor
permeability with the seasons/temperature. During colder months, it has lower
permeability to prevent interior moisture from entering the wall cavity; in warmer months,
the membrane’s permeability increases, allowing moisture to escape.
VaporWise works in concert with the wall insulation, including blown-in, loose fill, dense pack, batts, and spray foam, to create a high-performance wall system. VaporWise can be installed directly over batt and spray-foam insulation. For blown-in, loose-fill, or dense-pack insulation, install VaporWise first and then add furring strips horizontally over the membrane to provide added support when the insulation is installed. Learn more about using VaporWise alongside wall insulation.
VaporWise is installed on the interior side of the rafters in insulated, unvented roof assemblies,
where it helps manage vapor movement while supporting drying potential. It can be used as
part of a high-performance roof assembly designed to better manage moisture from both the
interior and exterior.
Yes. VaporWise is designed to support the BenDefense approach to building envelope
design, where every layer of the assembly works together to manage water, air, and
water vapor. Used alongside Benjamin Obdyke WRBs, rainscreen systems, flashing, and
roof protection products, VaporWise helps create wall assemblies that are designed to
promote drying, improve resilience, and manage moisture as a complete building
envelope. Learn more.
HydroCorner® Sill Treatment
As part of a wall system’s moisture management strategy, flashing at window openings to
create a sill pan establishes a pathway for moisture to drain out and away. Benjamin Obdyke
offers four approaches to sill corners to achieve proper sequencing: creating “corner patches”
or “bow ties” using HydroFlash GP or HydroFlash UV+ flashing tape, using HydroFlash LA liquid-
applied flashing, or using HydroCorners. Explore the differences between each window corner approach.
A prefabricated sill corner is a ready-made component that helps simplify window sill flashing
by creating a consistent corner detail. Rather than forming the corner in the field, installers can
incorporate HydroCorner into the sill pan assembly to help improve consistency and reduce
installation time.
HydroCorner is designed for window sill applications where installers want a simple, consistent
way to create sill corners as part of the flashing assembly. It works alongside Benjamin Obdyke
flashing products to help protect rough openings from water intrusion while simplifying
installation.
To speed up installation, installers can use HydroCorners at the sill corners instead of making
bow-ties out of flashing tape. Set a HydroCorner in a bead of sealant in each sill corner and
fasten with a staple. To create a proper pan in the rough opening of the window, apply
HydroFlash GP or HydroFlash UV+ to the sill, 6in up the jambs, and a minimum of 2in onto the
WRB. Make two relief cuts at the sill corners and apply pressure.
Window openings are one of the most vulnerable areas of the building envelope. For window
rough openings, flashing is used to create the sill pan, protecting the sill and creating a pathway
for any moisture to drain out of the window assembly, and then to seal the flanges of the
window to the wall. This helps keep moisture away from sheathing and framing members to
protect an area particularly vulnerable to damage and mold. Learn best practices for window
flashing installation.
Yes. HydroCorner is designed to work with Benjamin Obdyke weather-resistive barriers,
rainscreen systems, roof protection products, and interior moisture management solutions as
part of the BenDefense approach to building envelope design. Together, these components help
manage water, air, and water vapor throughout the building envelope.