FAQs

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

Moisture is the number one cause of exterior wall damage in buildings and drainage is a key design element that helps to remove water in walls. Trapped moisture can lead to paint/stain failure, mold, deterioration of building materials, and even structural damage.

HydroGap is available nationally through a network of authorized dealers. To find a distributor near you fill out this form or Contact our Customer Service team at 800-523-5261. You can also purchase online at www.buyobdyke.com.

Pricing varies regionally, but on average, HydroGap is $.19-$.22 per square foot. Please refer to your local dealer for an exact quote.

A 5ft wide roll provides for an easy, 1-man installation. More roll sizes may become available in the future.

To keep the roll weight and size manageable for a 1-man installation, 100 ft. (17lbs.) is an ideal size.

52 rolls/pallet

Fiber cement, Wood,Vinyl, *3-coat Stucco, *Stone Veneer/Manufactured Stone, Metal

*These require 2 layers; use with FlatWrap UV.

Similar to a standard housewrap, a hammer-tacker and staples are appropriate installation tools for HydroGap. If you are air-sealing from the exterior, cap fasteners must be used.

Yes, HydroGap has a 10 year product warranty or a 15 year system warranty. See details here.

The blue spacers bonded to the housewrap are made of a blended thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) material.

TPO is short for thermoplastic ployolefin. TPO is more commonly recognized for its applications in commercial roofing – the material is known for its exceptional resistance to UV and weathering conditions.

The tri-laminate substrate of HydroGap is comprised of three layers, including two non-woven layers with a vapor permeable, water-resistant film sandwiched between them. The tri-laminate not only offers great tear strength, but it also protects the water-resistant film between the outer layers. This unique structure prevents the film from being compromised during installation.

Wovens and nonwovens are two different approaches to creating a fabric material, which can be used in the manufacture of housewrap. The key difference between a woven and nonwoven housewrap is the method in which vapor permeability is achieved. Woven housewraps tend to require micro-perforations to allow vapor permeability, whereas nonwovens do not. This is important because micro-perforations can decrease the water resistance of a housewrap.

The main difference between HydroGap Drainable Housewrap and Slicker Classic rainscreen is the size of the gap that each provides. Slicker Classic is a true rainscreen, meaning that it provides a ¼-inch gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This ¼-inch gap provides for both drainage AND continuous airflow (drying). Slicker Classic by itself does not act as a WRB (water-resistive barrier), so it needs to be installed along with FlatWrap UV housewrap. We also offer a combination product, Home Slicker Plus Typar, that offers both a rainscreen and WRB in one product. Slicker Classic is recommended as best practice in areas with wind-driven rain, especially when using water-absorptive claddings such as fiber cement and wood.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a 1mm gap between the sheathing and the cladding. This 1mm gap is not considered a rainscreen, as it provides drainage but not drying. HydroGap does act as a WRB, and meets all testing requirements for housewraps. The use of HydroGap Drainable Housewrap is recommended behind cladding types such as wood, fiber cement, vinyl, and stone & stucco. It’s also recommended in cases where budgets do not allow the use of a full rainscreen system such as Slicker Classic.

If you are not using HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, you do not need to tape vertical or horizontal seams or use cap-fasteners as long as you install with the appropriate overlaps per the installation instructions (4” min. on horizontal, 6” min. on vertical, 12” min. around corners). Because the 1mm gap of HydroGap provides a drainage path for intruding water, the water will follow the path of least resistance, draining out of the system versus migrating up and/or across and penetrating seams. Taping and appropriate flashing are still required around windows and other penetrations; however, taping seams is not necessary. If you are attempting to use HydroGap as a primary air-barrier, seams will need to be taped. Cap-fasteners will also need to be used to accomplish this. Also, it’s necessary to seal every penetrable area, as well as the sill plate, in order to achieve a true air barrier from the exterior. You can also achieve an air barrier by sealing sheathing and sealed exterior insulation instead of using HydroGap as your air barrier.

Yes—HydroGap can be used with any cladding material, including stucco and stone. HydroGap has been evaluated as an approved moisture drainage system for use in stucco and adhered masonry veneer wall systems (recognized according to the Exception to IRC Section 703.6.3). From an application standpoint, we recommend that HydroGap be used as the first WRB layer, with FlatWrap UV as the secondary intervening layer between the housewrap and the scratch coat. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap can be part of a sustainable EIFS assembly. Within the EIFS market, moisture-managed systems have grown in popularity. HydroGap can serve as the means of drainage that is typically located behind the foam board. Installation drawings are available at www.hydrogap.com.

Yes—HydroGap will provide an effective drainage space in the wall assembly when using exterior insulation board. The prduct can be applied either behind the insulation board (for drainage between the board and sheathing), or on top of the insulation board (for drainage directly behind the cladding). Installation drawings are available on www.hydrogap.com. Please contact our technical service team for guidance on your project: 800-346-7655 or techsupport@benjaminobdyke.com.

We do not recommend the use of HydroGap as a membrane or underlayment in roofing applications. We have not tested the product for use in these types of applications.

You can install both products, however, there is no additional drainage performance added by combining them. The 1mm gap provided by HydroGap will be covered by the ¼” gap created by Slicker Classic. If you prefer the housewrap performance characteristics of HydroGap over other brands due to its tear strength, perm rating, water resistance, and trilaminate substrate, then you can certainly pair our FlatWrap UV housewrap with Slicker Classic to achieve an exterior rainscreen system. FlatWrap UVis a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. FlatWrap UVis a perfect complement to Slicker® Classic as the WRB component in a rainscreen wall system. It can also be paired with HydroGap® Drainable housewrap as the required secondary layer in stone/stucco applications.

Sorry, we cannot customize the printing of logos on HydroGap at this time.

Benjamin Obdyke offers a specially-formulated, 2.5” wide tape for HydroGap called HydroFlash® 2.5 in. It is an aggressive self-adhered sealing tape accessory for HydroGap® Drainable Housewrap and
FlatWrap® HP. With the latest technology in adhesion, it can be applied to damp surfaces and installed down to zero degrees fahrenheit. Other self-adhered flashing from our product compatibility list can also be used to tape seams. Please see our approved product compatibility list for HydroGap in the installation instructions.

HydroGap can be installed over ZIP. It will act as a drainage plane, creating a 1mm space between the sheathing and the cladding. As ZIP system, with taped seams already functions as the primary air barrier, we recommend not taping HydroGap seams. If installing and flashing windows in the same plane as HydroGap, refer to our compatible products list for acceptable flashings, follow installation instructions Method I or II. If installing and flashing-in windows before installing HydroGap, see our HydroGap install instructions for the Method III; Windows First. All documents are available on our website: www.benjaminobdyke.com.

Yes. HydroGap is considered best practice in various types of installations because it provides a drainage path to effectively get the water out of the wall. When furring strips are installed tight to housewrap, water could get trapped and cause potential water damage to the furring strips. Trapped water can cause a buildup of pressure in the wall system which could help liquid water find its way into fastener hole locations. When HydroGap is installed behind the furring strips, it reduces the chance for moisture to become trapped by creating the 1mm space.

Slicker HP is a cost effective, labor and material saving, product that contains the patented Slicker three-dimensional matrix bonded to our FlatWrap UV, a commercial-grade water-resistive barrier (housewrap) with enhanced UV and tear resistance. This simple design allows you to install double the sidewall protection in half the time.

Slicker HP creates a continuous path to allow for drainage and drying; whereas furring strips compartmentalize the drainage path and air circulation.

Slicker HP should be used on the wall to cover exposed wood sheathing and underneath cladding.

Slicker HP is a high performance water-resistive barrier and rainscreen in one. This saves time from wrapping the house twice; first with a WRB and second with a rainscreen. Additionally, since Slicker HP is detachable; detailing around windows, doors and other penetrations is as easy as when just a WRB is installed.

Yes, the FlatWrap part of the Slicker HP product is a water resistive barrier.

While we recommend using Slicker HP as the best practice when installing wood or fiber cement siding; it is also approved for use underneath stone veneer, stucco, vinyl and metal siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker HP provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker HP is installed by rolling out over window openings. Cut out window opening and peel back Slicker matrix to allow for proper flashing installation. For the complete list of instructions, please refer to our installation brochure and video.

At corner and trim boards, we recommend detaching the Slicker matrix from the housewrap and installing trim and corner boards flush to the surface of the FlatWrap.

If installation does not allow for the top of the wall to remain open; we require (at minimum) the bottom of the wall to remain open to allow for drainage and air flow. The benefits of the installation of Slicker HP will still add to the longevity of the cladding systems.

Cedar Breather is a fire-resistant underlayment for wood shingles and shakes that provides space for a continuous airflow between the solid roof deck and the shingles and shakes.

Excess moisture in cedar shakes and shingles causes cupping, warping and potential rotting. The unique design of Cedar Breather addresses all three issues by providing a continuous airspace between the solid roof deck and the shingles, thereby enhancing the long term service life of the entire roof assembly.

Home Slicker is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather is designed for roof assemblies and specifically used under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Shingles lay smoothly together, fit tight and do not allow gaps between layers. It is not necessary to interleave felt. Shakes, due to their difference in thickness, leave gaps between layers. To be sure water and snow will not get into open areas, it is recommended to interleave #30 felt between layers.

Only if the shingles are in good condition and lay smooth. However, the best application is to follow instructions on the roll (cover decking with felt, staple Cedar Breather and then apply shingles).

3/12 is the minimum pitch at which Cedar Breather can be applied.

Yes. Drip edge and rake edge will help to kick the water away from the fascia into gutter. This is important since water running off cedar turns black and stains. (On applications without gutters and/or the soffits are narrow, it is more of an issue.)

If you are building in an area where insect infiltration is a concern, it is recommended that a 6 inch piece of screening be installed on the lower edge of the Cedar Breather above the fascia. The screen should not have holes any larger than 1/8 inch for optimum protection.

Stainless steel nails are the best choice. High tensile strength aluminum is acceptable if the edging and gutters are also aluminum. Do not mix metals (copper, galvanized or aluminum) as doing so may cause corrosion. Galvanized or copper may result in discoloration and streaking.

It depends on the thickness of the shingle. Use a nail that will allow for ¾ inch penetration into sheathing (.27 inches for Cedar Breather thickness).

Cedar Breather has a class A fire rating.

Cedar Breather is not approved in an assembly where an impermeable membrane covers the entire roof deck. Benjamin Obdyke supports the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau’s position which does not recommend this type of installation. Cedar Breather can be used where an impermeable membrane covers up to 36” from the edge of the roof.

Slicker Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Slicker Classic was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 20 (product) or 25 (system) year limited warranty.

Slicker Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Slicker Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker 10 Classic is a product that creates the necessary air space in a rainscreen wall assembly. A rainscreen is a technique for controlling rain entry in an exterior wall that involves incorporating an airspace immediately behind the exterior cladding in addition to employing a water resistive barrier. The rainscreen system promotes drainage and ventilation behind the cladding, therefore reducing the chance of mold, mildew or other moisture related problems that occur.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing

Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 Classic, furring strips were installed vertically under cladding to help alleviate the potential for moisture problems. Home Slicker was designed to provide an easy-to-install, continuous ventilation and drainage space that is easier and faster than furring strips.

No. Slicker 10 Classic is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

1. Slicker 10 Classic is faster and easier to install, cutting labor costs.

2. Slicker 10 Classic provides a continuous vented airspace over the entire surface area of the wall, providing greater drainage and more effective drying than wood strapping which only vents approximately 85% of the wall. (1×3 strapping installed 16 inches on center leaves 15% of the wall unventilated.)

3. Unlike wood furring that is subject to saturation and decomposition in a relatively short period of time, Slicker 10 Classic is plastic so it won’t decompose over time and it comes with a 50 year warranty

Slicker 10 Classic solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind various cladding systems. We recommend it’s best with wood siding.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 Classic provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 Classic is specifically designed for sidewall applications. Its vertical channels are designed for optimal drainage and drying.

Cedar Breather was developed for roof assemblies and specific use under cedar shingles and shakes. The matrix is conical in shape to promote air circulation and optimize drying needed to prolong the life of cedar shakes and shingles.

Due to the variety of window profiles, please refer to our Application and Architectural Drawings.

Shark Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, roll-able, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Shark Vent comes in two versions: Shark Vent XLP and Shark Vent Xtra.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP and Xtra are low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent; with Xtra having a filter. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Shark Vent XLP and Xtra provide 12 inches net free area per linear foot.

Slicker 10 Classic can be installed behind the window and door trim as well as the corner boards to provide drainage and ventilation.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 Classic will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen.

Generally, an ordinary hammer-tacker is used to install Slicker 10 Classic. It can also be installed using roofing nails and a hammer.

Shark Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as a wider shingle over area to accept a full 12” cap shingle, and flexible external baffle walls to conform over architectural shingles. Shark Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material, every 12”. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

No. Shark Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Shark Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof; see steep pitch slot with recommendations for pitches over 12/12.

In addition to the exterior baffle, Shark Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Slicker MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Slicker 10 MAX is a rainscreen that includes a filter fabric, providing enhanced UV and compression resistance. The fabric serves as “sacrificial layer” in stone or stucco applications, while preventing mortar from blocking drainage and drying capacity.

Leading building scientists recommend rainscreen systems be used in areas prone to wind-driven rain and/or areas that have an average annual rainfall of 40 inches or more. Refer to our Whitepaper, Managing
Moisture in Low-Rise Building Enclosures.

Wind-driven rain from the outside and moisture vapor from the home’s interior, often remain trapped in the sidewall assembly. Left alone, this moisture can promote the growth of mold and undermine the structural integrity of the sheer wall. Prior to the introduction of Slicker 10 MAX, metal lath was applied directly to building paper providing opportunity for potential moisture problems.

No. Slicker 10 MAX is used in conjunction with a high quality housewrap (like FlatWrap UV) or building paper as part of a comprehensive approach to moisture management.

Slicker 10 MAX solves the moisture problem by effectively draining and venting moisture from behind fiber cement, stone veneer and stucco applications.

HydroGap Drainable Housewrap provides a space for drainage behind cladding. Slicker 10 MAX provides a larger space between sheathing and cladding to allow for drainage and drying potential of the cladding.

Slicker 10 MAX should be installed over the window flange after windows have been properly installed.

Slicker 10 MAX is recommended under trim and corner boards. It is also suggested that each wall section be compartmentalized to equalize pressure which will help to reduce water intrusion.

Although you will not receive the benefit of a fully ventilated rainscreen assembly, Slicker 10 MAX will still dramatically enhance the drainage and drying capability of the entire wall assembly when compared to a wall that is not ventilated with a rainscreen. Install weep vents at the bottom of the wall to allow air movement and drainage.

Weep vents should be used to allow moisture drainage out of the wall when a shelf exists. Weep vents are intended to be installed vertical in masonry joints between two bricks at the base course. In manufactured stone, cut a notch in the non-woven fabric and push the weep vent into the channels of the Slicker 10 MAX leaving the fabric over the top of the vent so mortar cannot clog the vent. For stucco
applications, use a stucco stop or weep screed with weep holes.

Roll Vent is the first ridge vent on a roll and was created by Benjamin Obdyke in 1987.

Roll Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Roll Vent also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

18 square inches per linear foot—As much as 50% more NFA than other ridge vents.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

It is not recommended as nail guns can only use a maximum nail length of 1 ¾ inch—that may not be sufficient to properly fasten Roll Vent to the roof deck in order to prevent blow-offs.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Roll Vent can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Roll Vent installation instructions here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Roll_Vent_Install_Instructions.pdf.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. Roll Vent has been tested using fiberglass insulation in both dry and wet conditions. Results show less than 3% of the total exposed Roll Vent showed any adherence.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able application; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Roll Vent comes with 2 ½ inch nails.

Rapid Ridge is Benjamin Obdyke’s nail gun-able ridge vent on a roll that offers the quickest installation of any rolled ventilation product on the market, complete with superior weather and insect infiltration protection.

Rapid Ridge has some unique qualities over the competition such as the “gull wing” design that prevents shingles from bending over the sides. Rapid Ridge also has a see-through hinge which makes it easier to center over the ridge. Finally, the visible nail line helps assist with the alignment of shingles.

The low 5/8 inch profile allows Rapid Ridge to be installed with any pneumatic roofing nail gun. Also, the double layer of fabric increases the compression resistance and does not create a wavy appearance along the ridge.

12.5 square inches per linear foot.

No. End plugs are not necessary if ridge cap shingles are lapped over end of product and down onto the ridge. Optionally, Rapid Ridge can be installed right to the gable ends using an integral end plug that involves cutting the matrix and folding the fabric over the matrix. See the Rapid Ridge here, https://benjaminobdyke.com/uploads/resources/Rapid_Ridge_Install_Instructions.pdf.

Yes, Rapid Ridge 7 has been tested and approved for cedar roof applications and gives a much cleaner installed look versus roof pots. Is there a problem if Rapid Ridge is installed with the fabric side facing up? Yes. The warranty is VOID.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge vent to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

Rapid Ridge has a lower profile for nail gun-able applications; Roll Vent cannot be installed with a nail gun. Rapid Ridge has a net free area of 12.5 inches per linear foot, while Roll Vent has maximum ventilation with 18 inches per linear foot of net free area.

Yes. Each roll of Rapid Ridge comes with 1 ¾ inch collated nails. Can I mix a ridge vent with another type of roof exhaust vent? (i.e. gable vent, roof pot type vents or a power vent) Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

Begin cutting the slot at least 12” from the inside of the wall below or minimum 18” from the edge of the ridge.

There are male and female connections on each piece that fit together. The connections also assist in alignment and protect the seams from leaks.

The external baffle prevents rain, snow and insect infiltration.

Xtractor Vent is Benjamin Obdyke’s externally baffled, shingle over ridge vent specially designed to extract heat and moisture out of the attic. Xtractor Vent® is available in four versions: XLP, Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra, X18, and X18 Xtra.

Xtractor Vent has some unique qualities over the competition such as the drain holes every 4” which prevents water build up. Xtractor Vent also has an integrated end plug system that helps save material. Another benefit is the embossed nail line which assures proper nail placement and prevents damaging of the internal baffle. Finally, not all externally baffled products have both an internal and external baffle system – make sure the product you use has both systems and meets the shingle warranty requirements.

Xtractor Vent XLP is a low profile (5/8”) sectional ridge vent that is designed for installation with a nail gun. Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra are a low profile (5/8”) rolled ridge vent. Xtractor Vent X18 does not have a low profile design. It has a higher profile (13/16”) that allows for a greater net free area (18 square inches of NFA per linear foot). Xtractor Vent X18 Xtra is similar to Xtractor Vent X18, but has a filter for extra protection against weather infiltration.

Xtractor Vent X18 and X18 Xtra have 18 inches per linear foot, the maximum ventilation available. Xtractor Vent XLP and Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra have 12.75 inches per linear foot.

No. Xtractor Vent contains integrated end plugs. Additionally, end plugs are located every 12” or every 6” in Shark Vent XLP, Shark Vent Xtra to allow for less scrap when splicing.

No. A balanced system is necessary to achieve proper ventilation. The use of a ridge vent without equal or greater soffit vent could cause the ridge to act as an intake rather than an exhaust vent.

No. Never combine ridge vents with gable vents. Air will move from the gable to the ridge and the remainder of the attic will not be effectively vented; therefore leaving hot, moist air to cling to the underside of the sheathing. This could create ice damming. When installing a ridge vent, be sure to also install soffit vents and block off the interior of the gables; using them for aesthetic value only.

All Xtractor Vent products are approved for up to a 16/12 pitch roof

In addition to the exterior baffle, Xtractor Vent contains a sine wave (“s” shaped) internal weather baffle to prevent rain and snow infiltration. The sine waves also provide superior support in the nail line area for hand or nail gunning.

Mixing types of attic exhaust vents for a common attic space is not recommended. Vents placed between the intake vents and the ridge vent will short-circuit the air flow and not allow for even ventilation at the roof and along the peak. Additionally, mixing exhaust ventilation could lead to weather infiltration issues. If you have existing gable vents or other, we recommend you close off these types of vents before installing a ridge vent.

We generally recommend against combining an attic vent fan with ridge ventilation. A ridge vent is the exhaust component of a static ventilation system that works in coordination with intake vents. As air exits the ridge vent (either drawn out from windy conditions or through rising warm air), the ventilation flow within the attic is from soffit to ridge underneath the entire roof deck surface. The introduction of an attic fan will disrupt this ventilation flow. As a result, the ridge vent could act an intake vent and potentially draw in moisture during a rain event.

The other downside is that attic fans can unintentionally introduce more moisture into an attic. This can occur if the attic floor is not properly sealed. When the attic fan runs, it will depressurize the space and draw in air from any available opening, which can include leaks from the conditioned space. In a cold weather condition, this can introduce warm moisture-laded air into a cold attic environment.

FlatWrap UV can be exposed for up to 4 months. For longer exposure, contact Benjamin Obdyke’s Customer Service to get individual approval for warranty coverage.

Yes, use enhanced nailing pattern to secure to sheathing.

No.

FlatWrap UV is recommended for use in the following applications:

• As a housewrap under Home Slicker
• As a housewrap under Home Slicker Stone & Stucco
• As the second layer over HydroGap in a stucco application
• Underneath rigid foam insulation as a housewrap

No.

No.

Please refer to our compatibility list for flashings, caulks and sealants to be used with FlatWrap UV.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.

HydroCorner is a pre-formed sill solution. It provides additional protection at window sill corners when using a straight-type flashing tape to create a complete sill pan solution.

You can use a staple or nail to hold in place, then continue with sill flashing overtop.

It is not recommended, as any water that gets behind the cladding and flashing could migrate behind and underneath the corner.

No, these corners are intended for sill protection at the corners of the window opening only.

No. HydroCorner is compatible with most caulks, sealants and straight-flashing tapes.

No, a mechanical fastener will suffice. However, if you prefer, you can use a small amount of sealant to hold the corner in place before installing the sill flashing.

HydroCorner provides a quick solution to address creating a bowtie cut piece of flashing tape at the corners.